Other Glass Fusing Supplies

This page includes supplies that you can add to the basic cutting and fusing tools. You can add them as you decide that these items will help or enhance your fused projects.

Be sure to shop around to find the best prices on purchasing and shipping these items. If you have a local glass store you might be able to purchase these items from that source.

This is a page of other supplies that can be added and a small explanation of what they are and how they are used in the fusing process.

So now you want to have all the other glass supplies on the list, but you don't know what they do, or how they are used. This page will help you in this endeavor. I have broken them down into categories to help make your search a little easier.

Decoration and Texture

As with all of your fusing projects, check your materials to be sure that the COE is consistent. You must have the same COE on all of your pieces of glass and supplies.

Ok, let’s start with dichroic glass. This glass appears to be diverse colors when viewed from different angles. It is created by adding a thin layer of metallic oxides to glass. It transmits certain light wavelengths while reflecting others, causing an iridescent effect. It can be used alone, or along with other glass.

Dichroic glass can add a magical element to your piece. When viewed at even slightly different angles, you will see a variety of different colors.

Before using this material it is important to know how to tell which side of the glass has the coating on it. You can tell by looking for the most reflective side of the glass. This can be done by placing your fingernail or pen against the glass. If you see a reflection in the glass like a mirror, then it is the dichroic side. If there is no reflection, then it is the side that is not coated with dichroic.
The dichroic coating is only applied to one side of the glass. Because of this, you can get two different results depending if you apply it with the coating side up or the coating side down. It can be fused with either the dichroic side up or down. If the dichroic side is down, you will have a smoother surface after fusing since the coating is sealed in the glass. If the dichroic side is fired up, then there will be more texture on your piece. This material can add some gorgeous details to your pieces.

Enamels are finely ground glass particles, made out of ground glass and pigments. They have a low melting point, and are available in both transparent and opaque colors. They are applied by using a brush, dry sifting or screen-printing on glass, and then fired using a kiln.

When using glass enamels, be sure to wear your dust mask, so that the fine particles are not inhaled. You can fire enamels in several layers, sometimes four or five layers, to keep the colors true and accomplish effects that would not be possible in one firing.

You can also add detail to your glass piece by using supplies like frit, stringers, noodles, or powders. All of these come in a variety of colors.

Frit comes in different sizes, coarse, medium, fine, or powder. It can be use to fill up molds, or add texture and design to your piece.

Stringers and noodles usually come in a long tube shaped container. They are long thin pieces of glass. Stringers are thin and round, while Noodles are flat and broad. Stringers are approximately 1 mm in diameter, and noodles are about 1 mm thick and 5 mm wide. Both are roughly 17" long. These can be melted with a candle and bent into different shapes.

Glass powders are finely ground pieces of glass. They can be used to mix with liquid stringer to paint on glass, or mixed with water to do the Freeze and fuse procedure. Glass powders can also be used to add decoration to your piece of glass, or put into molds and melted.

These powders come in a variety of colors. Glassline paints are premixed glass powder and liquid stringer in a squeezable tube for convince.

Gold pens are great for writing on glass before it is fired. These pens are used to personalize your piece, by adding your name, or by decorating the glass.

Hi-temp wire is used to make bails for jewelry. After bending the wire into a look, you can sandwich a piece of this wire between two pieces of glass. After firing the glass, it will be embedded in the fused glass. This wire remains strong in the extreme heat of kiln firings, and can withstand high temperatures for long periods of time. There is no guarantee that high temperature wire will stay silver after fusing. Although it will hold up to the fusing temperatures, it will almost always turn a dark gray in color.

Molds can be expensive, and are not necessary to do glass fusing. They are great for slumping into to make bowls, plates, or decorating pieces. Molds come in just about any shape you can imagine. Be sure they are not too large for your kiln shelf before purchasing.

Making Jewelry

This list of supplies is for making jewelry out of your fused pieces. These are not necessary supplies for fusing, but are great to have if you want to turn your piece into a wearable piece of art.

Bails can be purchased. They can also be hand made out of fused glass, or high temperature wire. Purchased bails are attached to the outside of your glass piece with jewelry glue. You can make bails by putting a tiny piece of fiber paper between two pieces of glass. After firing the pieces, remove the glass fiber and clean out the hole.

You can also make a bail by bending high temperature wire into a loop and firing between two pieces of glass. Purchased bails are attached to the outside of your glass piece with jewelry glue, and then attach to your jewelry findings,

I see a lot of wire wrapped glass pendants. Wire wrapping tools are necessary supplies to achieve this technique. The basic supplies needed for this would be wire, pliers, wire cutters, etc. You can wrap a cabochon with sterling silver or gold-filled wire.

Cutting Methods

These are supplies for other cutting glass methods . You might want to consider adding some of these supplies to your inventory.

Ok, so there are different ways you can cut your glass. You should learn the, as I like to refer to it, “Old Fashioned” way of cutting glass. There is nothing like a clean sharp straight cut and break.

But, alas there are other ways of doing this. A circle cutter, of course is super for making those nice clean circles. These are fantastic slumped into round bowl molds.


grinder , although not really made to cut glass, it sure can get into those small tiny spots that you just can’t cut with a cutter. It is also great for smoothing out those rough areas. So, in effect, you could call it a type of cutter, I guess.

There is a line of glass cutting products, called Morton Products. This line of products, although not really a cutting tool, they do have a vast array of products to assist you in making your cuts. They carry everything from cutting surfaces to helpful ways to store you glass and cutters.

Ok, who thought you would be able to use a mosaic cutter for glass cutting? This handy tool really cuts through thick fused glass. This can come in handy, when you fuse a large piece of glass, and want to cut it down into smaller pieces for jewelry.

The glass saw is my favorite tool. With this amazing tool, you can cut through glass like butter. The constantly rotating diamond blade smoothly glides through the glass, making sharp cuts that you could never make using a regular cutting tool. It has a reservoir where water constantly cools your blade, and a nice large working space. Once you try using a blade to cut your glass, you will have a hard time just cutting it by hand.


These are other supplies on the list that don't fit in the other categories. These supplies would be used to protect your kiln and you.

Fiber paper can be used to make bails, but its primary function is to protect your shelf during glass fusing. Cut to your desired shape and fire it in the kiln up to about 1200 degrees Fahrenheit to burn out any binder. Be sure the kiln is well ventilated during firing. This paper can be use several times. After you have fired it for the first time, it is used to protect you kiln shelf from the hot glass as it is fusing.

You can also use a shelf primer to protect your shelf. This is a powder that is mixed with water and then applied to the shelf. It is allowed to day before fusing your pieces.

Kiln posts and kiln shelves come in all shapes and sizes. These should be similar to the shape and size of your kiln chamber. The shelf rests on the posts. The posts are used to rise up the shelf to achieve the best heat distribution. Keep the size of the shelf small enough so that there is about a one inch space all the way around between your shelf and the sides of the kiln. Select posts that leave some room around the shelf for air to flow and for heat transfer. If during firing you should notice that one of your pieces has slid or moved, you can use a pair of reaching tongs to move the item back into place, or remove it and place it on the shelf. As you build up your supplies, consider adding these to your inventory. Hopefully this page has helped you to understand these supplies and how they can be used to enhance your glass fusing experience.

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