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Issue #036 - Glass Dots
August 30, 2011

Hot Out of the Kiln

August 30, 2011


Hot Out of the Kiln brings you the latest information, ideas, and resources for your glass fusing experience. If you like this newsletter, please forward it to share it with your friends.

For your convenience, I have included pictures of the various learning tools available from Glass Fusing Made Easy.

Clicking on these images will take you to that page on the site. If you are interested in purchasing any of these items, click on the "Add to Cart" button on that particular page. Thanks!

In this Issue of Hot Out of the Kiln:

1. Feature Article

2. Quote of the Month

3. Submit an Article or Tutorial

4. What I Have Been Working On

5. Reader Responses

6. Tips and Tricks

7. What's Happening

8. Product Review

Feature Article - Glass Dots Project

I love making glass dots!

Fused glass dots can be used to add some details to your projects, such as eyes.

Bullseye has posted a project recently using these glass globs in a new and unique way.

Click here to view this project.

I decided that I would attempt this new adventure and it will definitely be added to my favorite scrap glass projects.

Glass Dots Project

I purchased some coarse frit from Bullseye and more from Delphi Glass.

Simple spread out the coarse frit on your prepared kiln shelf and fire them to about 1500 degrees Fahrenheit.

Leave space between the pieces so that they can individually pull up and become various sizes of dots.

It will take several firings to achieve enough of these tiny dots for any medium to large project.

Determine what slumping mold you are going to use for your particular project to assure you have enough dots.

Once you have all of your room temperature dots, check to see if there is any kiln wash stuck on the backs.

Soak the tiny pieces in white vinegar or CLR to remove the wash from the glass.

Using the mold, place it face down on your kiln washed shelf and draw around the outside with a pencil.

This will give you an outline of the mold and a guideline for the dots.

Start arranging the dots within the outline on the kiln shelf.

Once you have all of the dots arranged, place the shelf inside the kiln and heat it up to a tack fuse (between 1350-1375 depending on your particular kiln)

Bring the piece down to an annealing temperature and hold for about an hour.

The glass can now be cooled down slowly to room temperature.

Place the fused glass on your prepared mold.

Slowly take the piece up (250-300 degrees per hour) to about 1000 degrees and hold for about 10 minutes.

This will allow all of the glass to even out in temperature.

Take the piece up as fast as possible to a slumping temperature of about 1250 degrees Fahrenheit.

Once the piece has slumped to your desired appearance, bring it back down to the annealing temperature and again hold for about an hour.

Slowly cool to room temperature.

Quote of the Month

"Adventure occurs when we embrace possibility." -- Jason of Kimandjason

Submit an Article or Tutorial

Do you have a great glass fusing article or tutorial that you would like to share? We are inviting submissions of articles or tutorials for the web site. The articles will become permanent on the site once approved and a link back to your website or blog can be included in the submission. Helping and sharing with others is a great way to assist others in learning information and techniques about glass fusing. You can add so much to the site with your knowledge and experiences.

If you have a web site or blog, then you know how important links are to get your site noticed by those search engines. A back link to your site will not only boost the search engine ranking, but assist in bringing traffic to your site.

For more information and submission, check out Submit Your Article.

What I Have Been Working On

Well, this month has not been very adventurous for me. I have had a bad case of tendentious and have had my arm in a sling to force myself to allow it to rest. It is amazing how the mind keeps racing even when the body says slow down.

I did however get some kiln time in and made a couple of the glass dot projects. I have several daughters with birthdays in August and this project created the perfect awesome gift.

Hopefully my shoulder will be better by next month, because I am anxious to complete the work on the intermediate video.

Reader Responses


Last Month’s Reader’s Question


I am having problems with my shelf primer. It flakes after the first to second firing and sometime the glass sticks than cracks. I apply 4 coats of primer and let dry before firing. My shelf is almost a year old . Would I need a new one. Thank you for your help.

Jennifer S.


Reader’s Responses


Hi Jennifer,

When I kiln wash my shelves, I do about 8 to 10 coats with a hake brush going vertically, horizontally and diagonally, continually stirring the k- wash to keep it mixed then I end with one warm water only, to smooth the surface, then I take the kiln to 500 degrees F to dry. Just a thought, but I also put this same number of washes on my forms, which I can reuse about 10 times. I track my firings (# of times and top temp) in the kiln as well as # of uses of the forms. Another sure way is to use kiln paper, a bit more money though and also a strong smell when the binders are burning off. Lastly I only use filtered water to mix with the k-wash and for the final coat of water.

Good luck.

Sharda M



The one thing I would suggest is that you make sure your shelf is totally clean before adding you kiln wash. I actually use a scrubbing pad and water to make sure all the old kiln wash is removed even the dust. I didn't do this once and all my shelves flaked but when I do this I can use the shelf several times with good results.

Judy P


It also takes me a LONG LONG time between kiln wash coats. I put on very thin coats and it takes me about 5 days to apply the wash. The wash should feel like there is a thick layer of white dust on the shelf. When the white dust is almost gone – it’s time to put on a couple coats of wash. Just be sure to dry it completely out at least overnight. Letting the wash dry is awfully hard. I want to get in there. But, I do take this wait time to think about my next few projects and have come up with a few great ones.

What I also do and have been for years is I use fusing paper quite a lot which also saves the kiln wash. It’s expensive but, I get 10 or 20 large sheets on eBay and cut them down.

At long last, I just purchased a commercial kiln from Ken-Jen (or Jen-Ken I can never remember). In their booklet they mentioned that sprinkling dry kiln wash on the shelves will protect the applied wash and the need for changing the shelf kiln wash is greatly lessoned. I did not know that before. I’ve been using this method for only about 2 weeks and there has not been any kiln problems.



For Jennifer regarding shelf primer flaking. Are you letting each coat dry before applying the next. Perhaps 4 coats is too much. I only use 2 and can use the kiln 2-4 times before reapplying. Also, when it gets to the flaky stage, I scrape all the old primer off into the garbage and start again. Patching does not work.



This would be a suggestion to Jennifer’s kiln wash problem. At our site, we fire our community kiln nearly every day, so kiln wash is impractical. We use the Bullseye shelf paper and it works very well. Our shelf is 4 years old and has never been replaced. The cost of paper is offset by the delight in seeing a finished project completed successfully.



Answer: An answer for the reader Jennifer- if you are using a jewelry or other small kiln, I highly recommend using Bullseye Glass Shelf Paper!! No priming is necessary and it works great!



For the artist having trouble with her shelf primer flaking it could be a matter of several factors. If the problem is insufficient drying between applications it can be aided by putting the shelf in the kiln at a low temp for a short period. This season has produced an excessive amount of humidity everywhere and longer drying or kiln assisted drying may be necessary. Another possible solution is to apply an even layer of the powdered separator(without water)directly to the surface of the shelf. A third option is to use thin fire shelf paper in addition to or instead of primer. Sometimes if previous layers of the kiln wash haven't been thoroughly enough removed they can cause the new layer to flake. It's discouraging because often it is a combination of factors that cause the failure and you go a little nuts trying answers one at a time. I have gone to always using thin fire paper and have one less thing to worry about.



Tips and Tricks

When doing a drape, mark the center of the kiln shelf and the center of the glass. Then match up the dots to center the piece.

WHAT'S HAPPENING - Frit Balls Bowl Project Guide

Delphi has listed a project guide for the Glass Dots Project listed above. Check it out!

PRODUCT REVIEW –How to Make Dichroic Glass Art E-Book

The newest e-book, "How to Make Dichroic Glass Art" is now live on the site.

Click here for further information.

This new e-book “How to Make Dichroic Glass Art” covers all the material in the DVD and book, and encompasses everything you need to know about Dichroic.

In this e-book, information is given on the various types of dichroic available to actually showing the materials used in projects.

The e-book starts by providing you with a basic knowledge of dichroic then ventures into the various types and continues with making and finishing off some projects.

An e-book is fantastic for viewing on your tablets, simply download it and take it with you.

For only $19.99 you will receive the following information:

  • Chapter 1 - Definition of Dichroic
  • Chapter 2 - History of Dichroic Glass
  • Chapter 3 - Dichroic Side of Glass
  • Chapter 4 - Colors and What Do they Mean
  • Chapter 5 - Crinkled Dichroic
  • Chapter 6 - Dichro Slide
  • Chapter 7 - Dichroic Coated Copper Foil
  • Chapter 8 - To Cap or Not to Cap
  • Chapter 9 - Etching Dichroic Glass
  • Chapter 10 - Dichroic Donut
  • Chapter 11 - Making Simple, Elegant Cabochons
  • Chapter 12 - Getting Creative
  • Chapter 13 - Shaping Cabochon
  • Chapter 14 - Dichroic Cabochon Finishing
  • Chapter 15 - Wrapping it Up
  • So, if you would like to:

  • Add Dichroic to your fusing projects,
  • Like to know more about the types that are available on the market,
  • How to incorporate dichroic in your fusing,
  • Enjoy having a visual to refer to as you work,
  • Then this newest e-book How To Make Dichroic Glass Art is the answer.

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    Glass Fusing Made Easy

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