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Issue #032 - Drop Ring Mold
April 30, 2011

Hot Out of the Kiln

April 30, 2011


Hot Out of the Kiln brings you the latest information, ideas, and resources for your glass fusing experience. If you like this newsletter, please forward it to share it with your friends.

For your convenience, I have included pictures of the various learning tools available from Glass Fusing Made Easy.

Clicking on these images will take you to that page on the site. If you are interested in purchasing any of these items, click on the "Add to Cart" button on that particular page. Thanks!

In this Issue of Hot Out of the Kiln:

1. Feature Article
2. Quote of the Month
3. Submit an Article or Tutorial
4. What I Have Been Working On
5. Readers Responses
6. Tips and Tricks
7. What's Happening

Feature Article - Drop Ring Mold

A drop ring mold is a ceramic ring that is supported by kiln posts inside the kiln.

Glass is cut to fit the mold and when heated in the kiln the molten glass slumps through the center opening of the mold.

Depending on how high the supporting kiln posts are will determine the type of broad rimmed vessel you will receive when firing.

Shaping glass using a drop ring mold can produce some elegant and outstanding pieces.

If the mold is placed low when fusing, then you will receive a bowl shape, but raise the mold up higher and you get a long vase with a ring top.

However there are other things you can do with this type of mold.

Recently I saw a new product that used a drop ring and a mold to make a very unusual and unique kiln formed glass art piece.

In this particular case, the drop ring mold was around $30, while the mold underneath had an inverted bowl shape with supports to hold the drop ring and was priced at about $49.

I decided that this would make an interesting piece of art, so I set out to create the same thing, but by using items I had on hand.

I already had a drop ring mold and some kiln posts, so all I needed was something to place under the drop ring mold.

I purchased a stainless steel ladle and cut off the handle.

Heating inside my conventional over, I covered the piece with several layers of kiln wash using a spray bottle.

Once completely coated, I had the perfect object for my project.

There are a few things to think about when making a creation such as this.

  • Take note of how the glass will flow during the heating process.
  • Make sure that there is enough room to remove your drop ring mold after firing.
  • After firing, I had exactly the object I had envisioned, but the base was larger than the drop ring opening.

    I didn’t want the drop ring mold to be a permanent fixture of the piece, so I had to cut it in two places to remove the mold.

    Now it is time to go to the store to purchase some Sairset to repair the mold.

    Have you tried making unique objects using a drop ring mold? If so, share your discoveries with the rest of us!

    If you are interested in seeing or purchasing the mold I discussed in this featured article, the product can be found at Creative Paradise.

    This link takes you to the foot drape mold that can be used along with a standard drop ring mold, or you can purchase their mold which they call the plate ring.

    Put together they will allow you to make the design that they have shown on the website. They also include instructions for achieving the bowl with a curved stand.

    Personally, I think the price is really steep, especially when you can achieve the same results using other molds and kiln posts to accomplish the same design.

    Quote of the Month

    “Dream and give yourself permission to envision a You that you choose to be. “ - Joy Page

    Submit an Article or Tutorial

    Do you have a great glass fusing article or tutorial that you would like to share? We are inviting submissions of articles or tutorials for the web site. The articles will become permanent on the site once approved and a link back to your website or blog can be included in the submission. Helping and sharing with others is a great way to assist others in learning information and techniques about glass fusing. You can add so much to the site with your knowledge and experiences.

    If you have a web site or blog, then you know how important links are to get your site noticed by those search engines. A back link to your site will not only boost the search engine ranking, but assist in bringing traffic to your site.

    For more information and submission, check out Submit Your Article.

    What I Have Been Working On

    After viewing the creative way to use a drop ring mold, I have been cutting circles and making various designs with different bottoms.

    I don’t know about you, but when I see something new in glass fusing, I just have to try it out and play around with the concept until I achieve a design that I desire.

    Although drop ring molds are not new to glass fusing, using them to create other designs is fun and intriguing. If you decide to give it a try, share with the rest of us your results.


    Reader Responses

    Last month we heard from Tracey and her concerns about shelf paper (kiln paper). Here is a refresher of the question followed by all the responses.


    Reader’s Question


    Hi there,do you know if the Bullseye brand shelf paper has asbestos in it? Do you have any suggestions for better alternatives health-wise for this paper?I've used just kiln wash,but I don't like the finish as well. thanks

    Thanks, Tracey


    Reader’s Responses


    For the person who doesn't like fiber paper:

    I am very allergic to the dust that remains after firing with paper. Mostly I use kiln wash but if I have to use the paper, I wear a mask when opening the kiln after firing. I remove and wash the pieces right away. Then I vacuum out the kiln with a shop vac before taking off my mask. Hope this helps.

    Hi Connie, I have been fusing glass since 1989 - couldn't find any info so experimented for a year, ruined kiln shelves, 'burned' glass, and so much more. I had a knight kiln w/ a setter and timer, and pyrometer which I had previously used for low fire clay - usually cone 05.

    I learned to utilize the heat 'zones' in my kiln to slump and fuse glass in the same firing, usually a cone 018-cone 016. Since we all know heat rises, I worked out an unusual way to load my kiln according to the heat levels.

    I heavily kiln washed the bottom and didn't use a shelf - which was best for fire polished or stick fusing 1/16" glass, the next layer up would be slumping 1/8" or full fuse of 1/16" glass, the next higher shelf I fused 1/8" glass with layers of 1/16" glass, and the top was where I put thicker glass to fuse more than two layers of standard 1/8" glass.

    I have a digital ramp kiln now, and it has it's benefits, but sometimes wish I had kept my older one. I had some type of a 'zen',lol, connection with it and never overfired a single piece, and it ramped beautifully on it's own due to it's size.

    Also, about using fiberboard. It is cheaper to use fire resistant ceiling tiles (about 2ft wide x 4ft long) that are used in chem. labs. They are cheap and plentiful at Home Depot. The have a white 'paint' that you have to fire off after you cut the shape you want. After the paint is fired off, coat the side you wish to apply your glass to with 3 layers of kiln wash, the same stuff you protect your kiln shelves with.

    This stuff can be shaped to slump into, over, and dropped through. I have a couple of pieces, that I've slumped into for shallow bowls, many times. They work with 90coe and 96coe and window glass, which is around 84coe. If any of the material happens to stick to your glass, just wash it off with a scrubbie and soap.

    Good luck to all.
    Barb Naas

    Hi Con,
    In reference to Tracys request for other shelf papers, etc to Bullseye paper. I noticed she did not like the finish she got with kiln wash. I also did not like the finish I got with kiln wash, until I tried applying it with an airbrush. I purchased an inexpensive, medium capacity airbrush thinned out the kiln wash so it would flow thru the airbrush and it gave me a very good finish. It will take a little experimenting to get the correct consistency. Then when you apply the kiln wash be sure to give each coat time to dry before applying the next. I find that this allows me to retain all the fine detail that would otherwise be lost with heavy coats of kiln wash. I also think the kiln wash stays on the mold/piece longer before it starts to chip, and come off. I also use this method for my shelves and posts all with good results. As for the base/floor of the kiln I have to use shelf paper as I cannot use kiln wash on it. Oh, and do remember to clean the airbrush right after you finish using it, otherwise it will be a little more difficult to get it really clean.
    Anyway this is my experience with kiln wash.
    Thanks for all the good info.

    Thanks everyone for the helpful suggestions and advice. I am sure this information will be helpful to others as well.

    Tips and Tricks

    Slumping glass into a mold makes the glass thinner. This process actually stretches the glass, if stretched too thin it will break.

    What's Happening - 2011 Dichroic by Design Contest

    Coatings By Sandberg, Inc is sponsoring their 5th annual contest. The submissions need to using dichroic glass in a function or artistic piece.

    Simply submit a photograph of your work according to their submission requirements. The winning photos will be placed on their site.

    The prizes are as follows:

  • 1st place winner will receive a $500 gift certificate towards CBS Dichroic glass.
  • 2nd place winner will receive a $250 gift certificate towards CBS Dichroic glass.
  • 3rd place winner will receive a $200 gift certificate towards CBS Dichroic glass.
  • All entries must be received before September 30, 2011. Click here to find out more about this contest.

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    See you next month…

    Glass Fusing Made Easy

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