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Issue #66 - Woven Glass
January 31, 2014
Hot Out of the Kiln
I have been working on the next issue of the Fused Glass Projects magazine, between visits to the Urgent Care and the pharmacy.
I personally don’t believe in getting a flu shot, and I think this year I have caught every bug that has come around.
Every time I think I am getting better, I seem to catch something else and down I go again.
I hope everyone else is feeling ok, but I have been seeing a lot of posts where everyone else seems to be just as sick as I have been.
I have managed to get some kiln time in the other day, and did a spring flower piece for the next issue of the magazine.
The next issue is coming along and should be available at the end of February or the first of March.
Share some of your creative projects with others by writing an article for one of the upcoming publications of the Fused Glass Projects magazine.
To find the Winter 2013 issue along with past issues, visit the website.
Until next month…keep it hot!
1. Feature Article
2. Quote of the Month
3. Glass Fusing Books and DVDs
4. Reader Response
5. Tips and Tricks
6. Share the Site
7. What's New
8. Product Review
Woven glass can be done by using fiber board or a mold to curve and shape the glass before assembling or can be accomplished by simply stacking strips of glass to achieve a simple glass weaving design.
How to Perform Strips Weaving
The technique of strips weaving has you place glass strips on top of one another to achieve the desired look. This looks similar to the design in plaid rather than true weaving, but it is the simplest method, when you are first learning how to attain a woven look with glass.
First, you need to choose your glass. You can use more than one color, if so desired, but make sure all glass is the same COE to prevent compatibility issues. Even dichroic and iridescent glass with work. You can make the project whatever size you want, as long as it will fit in your kiln.
Cut pieces about 1/2 inch in width and as long as you need to the strips to come up with your desired overall size. Clean the glass pieces of all fingerprints, debris and dirt using just soap and water or an alcohol-free glass cleaner. Make sure the pieces are thoroughly dry before proceeding. Use kiln paper or kiln wash to prepare the kiln.
Now, figure out how large you want your grid spaces to be between your glass pieces. 3/8 inch is a good starting place for this. Make sure to grasp the glass pieces only on their edges, so you do not leave fingerprints. Place a layer of strips down with all the strips 3/8 inch apart from each other until the desired width is attained.
Then place a second layer of pieces in the other direction spaced 3/8 inch apart from each other. You should wind up with a grid design. Fire your piece to tack fuse or to full fuse. This all depends on what look you are trying to attain. Set your kiln to fire the piece around 500 degrees F an hour to around 1000 degrees F and hold for about 10 minutes. This will allow all of the glass to even out in temperature. Next go as fast as possible to your final desired temperature. Anneal your glass fusing piece and make sure it is completely cooled before taking it out of the kiln.
You can display your finished product just as is, slump the piece into a mold, or drape the piece over a mold. You have many molds to choose from for this to give your piece a unique look.
“It had long since come to my attention that people of accomplishment rarely sat back and let things happen to them. They went out and happened to things.” - LEONARDO DA VINCI
Have you been wanting to learn the hot craft of glass fusing, but don't know where to begin?
Whether you enjoy watching movies to learn the techniques, or having a book to refer to as you learn, these learning tools will assist you in your progress.
If you don't have access to glass fusing classes, or want to learn some of the techniques that are not generally taught at these instructional settings, look no further.
I am trying to add new and exciting information all the time, and these learning materials are the newest items added to the site to help others learn glass fusing procedures.
To view or purchase any of the DVDs, Books, E-books or Downloadable Movies, click here.
TIP - If downloading any of the downloadable movies, keep in mind that they are very large files.
If you purchase and want to download any of these large files, you might consider using a product like the Free Download Manager.
It is a free product that needs to be downloaded and installed on your computer.
It will increase the download speed and decrease the time required to download the product.
Sabra F writes:
“The smoothest possible underside is achieved by using a piece of float glass sprayed with boron nitride as a kiln shelf. – Dennis Brady (Glass Campus)”
????????????? Is this a typo or is something left out? Frequently, the bottom of my item is a piece of float glass. It is what is fused. How can it be the shelf, or something to create the bottom? It IS what is fused. What am I missing here?
Dennis uses a piece of float glass that has been sprayed with MR97 instead of a kiln shelf...to achieve the smoothest texture on his fused glass pieces.
Sabra F writes:
Yes, that is what I understood that to say. But float glass slumps and fuses at the same temps +/- as any other glass. I work with it all the time. It becomes part of the piece and if used as a shelf, would simply slump onto the floor and fuse into the piece being fused AND the kiln. What am I missing here?
It would be placed on a kiln shelf, sprayed with MR97 and then the other glass would be on top of it...the MR97 would prevent the other glass from sticking to the float glass.
I hope that helpful tip didn’t confuse others, and if it did then I hope this clarified the information.
Responses help others in finding answers to their fusing questions. Do you have any other suggestions or hints that would benefit other glass fusing explorers? Share your comments and suggestions with our readers. Thanks!
When using the GLASTAR Glass Strip Cutter if you find that it is not scoring the glass, try placing some newspaper under the glass to raise it up just a little.
Clicking on the "Share this page" button at the bottom of your favorite pages will enable you to come back to your preferred pages and help others find interesting and exciting information.
Please help share the site with others!
Do you have an upcoming event or new product that you would like others to know about? Drop us a quick e-mail and once approved, it will be place in the next e-zine.
Coatings by Sandberg
GLASTAR Glass Circle & Strip Cutter with 6 Turret Wheels Cutter Head
I have had this tool for quite a few years and didn’t realize that I could cut strips with it until recently.
I had used it in the past to cut circles, but recently found out that it also cuts strips.
This is a great tool when you need to make quite a few consistent strips of glass as in glass weaving.
I has six cutting wheels in the turren that can be turned when you need a fresh sharp blade.
The long ruler allows for various sizes from ½” to 12” to be obtained, and is locked in place so that the cuts are exactly the same.
A 1” x 2” board can be attached to any work space and the stripper rides on the edge of the board as you score glass.
I have found this tool has become one of my favorite instruments in cutting consistent strips of glass.
Feel free to spread the word about "Hot Out Of The Kiln" on your own blogs, Twitter, Facebook or any of your social bookmarking sites.
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Comments? Ideas? Feedback? I would love to hear from you. Just reply to this e-zine and tell me what you think!
See you next month…
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