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Issue #95 - Swirled Pendants
June 30, 2016
Hot Out of the Kiln
Summer is in full swing, and the heat is unbearable here in Southern California.
This month’s project is a simple design that can be made using scrap glass.
I made my task using only two colors, but more colors can be used to create interesting designs.
I don’t know about you, but I have tons of scrap glass.
I don’t throw out any pieces and keep even the tiniest scraps, so I enjoy projects that delete my stash.
The Summer issue of the e-magazine is available and can be found by clicking here.
Until next month…keep it hot!
1. Feature Article
2. Quote of the Month
3. Glass Fusing Books and DVDs
4. Reader Response
5. Tips and Tricks
6. Share the Site
7. What's New
8. Product Review
These simple swirled pendants are another fantastic way to use some of your scrap glass.
They can be created in any small jewelry mold.
Although for my pendants, I only used two colors, these can also be made with several complimentary colors.
Placing the scraps of glass standing up allows the glass to flow and swirl during the firing process.
QUOTE OF THE MONTH:
"If you allow people to make more withdrawals than deposits in your life, you will be out of balance and in the negative! Know when to close the account." -- Christie Williams
Have you been wanting to learn the hot craft of glass fusing, but don't know where to begin?
Whether you enjoy watching movies to learn the techniques, or having a book to refer to as you learn, these learning tools will assist you in your progress.
If you don't have access to glass fusing classes, or want to learn some of the techniques that are not generally taught at these instructional settings, look no further.
I am trying to add new and exciting information all the time, and these learning materials are the newest items added to the site to help others learn glass fusing procedures.
To view or purchase any of the DVDs, Books, E-books or Downloadable Movies, click here.
TIP - If downloading any of the downloadable movies, keep in mind that they are very large files.
If you purchase and want to download any of these large files, you might consider using a product like the Free Download Manager.
It is a free product that needs to be downloaded and installed on your computer.
It will increase the download speed and decrease the time required to download the product.
This is in reply to the reader's question about how to stretch the budget on glass for jewelry making: I would start out with the largest kiln you can buy for your budget; not a microwave kiln, but a real kiln. If you know someone who already owns a kiln or is also interested in purchasing a kiln, you might be able to split the cost or "time share" the kiln until you're in a position to buy one completely on your own. Glass shops sometimes rent their equipment for use in their shop or will fire your pieces for a set price, but it makes sense to have LOTS of things to fire at the same time to keep it affordable. While having a TAP controller is the height of luxury, any good controller that allows you to store a few programs in it will work just fine. Learning how to use it and how to program in schedules will take a bit of time, but there is plenty of good advice on the internet and plenty of sites online that have firing schedules you can use to get started.
How to get glass? I regularly troll the scrap bins at my glass shops. Full sheets might cost me anywhere from $5-12 per square foot (mostly on the $12 side) so scrap at $2-$3 a pound is a real steal. A square foot of glass is roughly a pound, so you can see the savings. I use both 90 and 96 and I keep them marked and separated so that there is no confusion. I know of people who mix COEs, claiming to never add more than 10% to their creations, but it's a bad idea, especially in an item that is going to be worn by someone. When I get scrap, I also pick up fusible clear scrap which sometimes can be much cheaper than the colored glass. Clear stretches your colors, allowing you to use a base layer of blue, for instance, with a cap of clear that will pretty much melt in and disappear.
An alternative for you is to invest in a set of glass paints or enamels, lots of clear glass in 90 or 96 and make your own colors, designs and patterns from the start.
Recycling glass from the home such as window glass or bottles or other glasses can also be done, but you should not mix bottle glass with window glass and cross your fingers that the glasses are compatible. I do use broken window glass or I will cast bottled glass in my molds, but I am very careful about keeping the different glasses separate. Tupperware-like containers ar the dollar stores marked with a Sharpie might be as low-tech as it comes, but it works. Window glass is actually one of the cheapest ways to go since you can get this at your local hardware store and for a small investment in glass paints or enamels (a lot of online sites sell "kits" or "sample kits") you can have any color you can mix up. If you go that route, look for enamels or paints that can be intermixed to make new colors. And keep in mind that with the right firing schedule for window glass (coe 82-88), you won't generally get devitrification unlike the other glasses, including stained glass. Oh, by the way, I also keep glass from one pane separate from the others despite being "window glass" because float glass COEs vary and can vary from one pane to the next because you don't know the manufacturer.
What tools to have? A good glass cutter and breakers. Kiln wash can be applied with the traditional haik brush--about $3 at Hobby Lobby or a foam brush or good paint brush. A notebook and writing instrument to make notes, keep track of firing schedules and what works, record the successes and failures. Beyond those there are plenty of things you can go out to buy, like mosaic cutters (tile cutters/nippers) which are great for making small bits, cutting systems or a tile saw, decals and dichroic, molds and casting refractories, but perhaps the most important "tool" in your workshop will be your imagination and attention to detail so that you can duplicate your "wow" moments.
Thank you R. Gilbert for your answer and response. I am sure your information will assist others who have had this question. Do you have any other suggestions or hints that would benefit other glass fusing explorers? Share your comments and suggestions with our readers. Thank you!
TIPS AND TRICKS:
For best results, make sure the kiln shelf is level.
SHARE THE SITE:
Clicking on the "Share this page" button at the bottom of your favorite pages will enable you to come back to your preferred pages and help others find interesting and exciting information.
Please help share the site with others!
Do you have an upcoming event or new product that you would like others to know about? Drop us a quick e-mail and once approved, it will be place in the next e-zine.
Coatings by Sandberg
These glass nippers are also referred to as Glass Tile Nippers and Mosaic Tile Nippers.
Purchased these from glass suppliers and at your local hardware store.
Designed to easily cut small pieces of glass or glass rods up to ¼ inch in thickness.
The cutting wheels can be replaced on the wheel designed nippers if needed when they become dull.
These are great when you want to chip or break off small pieces of glass.
I have several pairs of nippers and have never had to replace the blades.
Feel free to spread the word about "Hot Out Of The Kiln" on your own blogs, Twitter, Facebook or any of your social bookmarking sites.
And, thank you for signing up for the newsletter. If you know anyone else that might like to receive it please let them know. They can either visit the site and sign up, or send me an email at email@example.com.
Comments? Ideas? Feedback? I would love to hear from you. Just reply to this e-zine and tell me what you think!
See you next month…
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