Back to Back Issues Page
Issue #61 - Screen Melt
August 29, 2013

Well, school has started and that means that I am now babysitting for a few hours a day.

I dropped a large 5 pot Santa Claus on my big toe and cracked the bone.

I don't handle pain very well, but fortunately it only throbbed for a few hours.

It is healing nicely and I am able to wear my tennis shoes again to go to the gym.

Thank you again to everyone who has purchased the paperback copy of the book, “Glass Bottle Art”, as well as the PDF format on CD. They can still be purchased by clicking here. The movie version is still in the works and I am hoping to work more on it this month.

The Fall 2013 issue of the Fused Glass Projects magazine is live and available for purchase on the Fused Glass Projects website.

Click here to read more or to purchase your copy.

Here are the articles that are included in the Fall 2013 edition of the magazine:

Fall 2013 Fused Glass Projects Magazine

The Conference That May Have Changed My Life

by Anne Nye

Anne shares her experiences and insight into the recent Bullseye Becon conference held in Portland, Oregon. From the opening night to her after thoughts of the event, Anne walks us through her experiences and encounters.

Roll Up Technique

by Carrie Strope Sohayda

Are you always looking for new techniques to integrate into your process as you build your artistic voice? Have you heard of the roll up technique? Carrie reveals some insight into this process.

Boiled Beautification

by Connie Brown

The look of boiled glass is used to create this boiled beautification cabochon. Pictures and detailed instructions of creating and finishing the project are included.

Volume Control

by Dennis Brady

It is important to understand volume control so you can predict what will happen with different designs at different temperatures. Follow along as Dennis demonstrates various examples of pieces fired at different temperatures.

Bottle Art

by Gene Cross

Glass bottle art creates fantastic pieces. Gene provides step-by-step guidelines for creating some of his bottle art windows.

Sun Catchers

by Laura Schnick

Uniquely fun and creative sun catchers for any season or reason can be simple to design. Laura sells her exclusive sun catchers at swap meets and craft fairs.

Fall Leaf

by Lisa Vogt

Serve up your favorite seasonal sweets on this festivities plate. Lisa has provided the pattern to generate this easy stylized.


by Margot Clark

MUD? What is it, where did it come from and what do I do with it? Margot is the expert for answering all the questions and offering examples of using MUD.

Drop Ring

by Peggy Redwine

Peggy provides simple steps for building and firing a drop ring. Detailed pictures are also included to assist with the process.

Coral Chime

by Petra Kaiser

Petra shares her vision on fashioning this gorgeous coral chime. You will learn how to create any shape with cullet glass, how fast you can fuse cullet glass on KL-board and how to drape over Kaiser Lee Board triangles.

We still have a couple of other authors that are still working on their articles and they should be ready sometime this month.

You can see that this issue is filled with some exciting and informative articles written by well-known artist. Read more about this publication by clicking here.

Until next month…keep it hot!


1. Feature Article

2. Quote of the Month

3. Glass Fusing Books and DVDs

4. Reader Replies

5. Tips and Tricks

6. Share the Site

7. What's New

8. Product Review

Screen Melt

A screen melt is a fused glass technique in which you use a screen to make unique patterns.

This is an excellent technique to use to use up your scrap glass.

Below is the materials needed for this technique and other important information.

Screen Melt Materials List:

  • 1 Screen stainless steel melt screen
  • Glass (with the same COE)
  • Fiber Board
  • Fiber Strip
  • Stainless Steel Pattern Bar Mold
  • Kiln
  • Kiln wash
  • Kiln shelf
  • 4 kiln posts

  • Directions:

    I began by using a stainless steel pattern bar mold. I traced around the mold and cut a piece of fiber board slightly larger than the shape.

    Placing the mold on top of the cut fiber board, I used a fiber strip and lined the inside edges of the mold.

    Next, I placed kiln posts around the form to support the stainless steel screen.

    My glass was then cut and cleaned before stacking on top of the screen. Mixing the colors so that no two colors were stacked together.

    The melts turn out the best when more light glass is used than dark glass. Too much of the dark glass will overwhelm the pattern. Adding some clear is also an excellent way to bring out the other colors used.

    This is the firing schedule I used in my particular kiln. Adjust to your kiln specifications:

    Ramp the temperature at a rate of 800 degrees F (426 C) per hour until 1000 degrees F (871 C) is reached.

    Soak the glass for 15 minutes.

    Ramp as fast as possible to 1600 degrees F (871 C) is reached. Soak the glass for 90 minutes.

    Lower the temperature down to 1475 degrees F (801 C) as quickly as possible and hold for 45 minutes at this temperature.

    Continue down to 960 degrees F (515 C) as fast as you can at this point and hold for 60 minutes.

    At a rate of 200 degrees F (93 C) per hour, and keep decreasing at this point, but at a rate of 300 degrees F (148 C) until 300 degrees F (148 C) is reached.

    Now, turn off the kiln allow the piece to cool to room temperature.

    Once the piece was fully fused, it was removed from the kiln and cleaned with soap and water, before doing some cold working to adjust and remove any sharp and uneven areas.

    "When I lost all of my excuses, that's when I found all of my results" - Unknown

    Have you been wanting to learn the hot craft of glass fusing, but don't know where to begin?

    Whether you enjoy watching movies to learn the techniques, or having a book to refer to as you learn, these learning tools will assist you in your progress.

    If you don't have access to glass fusing classes, or want to learn some of the techniques that are not generally taught at these instructional settings, look no further.

    I am trying to add new and exciting information all the time, and these learning materials are the newest items added to the site to help others learn glass fusing procedures.

    To view or purchase any of the DVDs, Books, E-books or Downloadable Movies, click here.

    TIP - If downloading any of the downloadable movies, keep in mind that they are very large files.

    If you purchase and want to download any of these large files, you might consider using a product like the Free Download Manager.

    It is a free product that needs to be downloaded and installed on your computer.

    It will increase the download speed and decrease the time required to download the product.



    My husband and I have been fusing glass since 1985. When we started there was very little information about the art of fusing. We had been doing stained glass since 1973, so we have a goodly supply of stained glass that we wanted to use in fusing. Over the years we have had very mixed results when fusing stained glass. Single layer drape molds usually turn out OK, but are rather thin. Most of our success with stained glass has been when we use only a single layer of glass. The Bullseye, System 96, and other glass created for fusing give much better results and allow so much more creativity. Unless you can determine the COE of your stained glass, I think you will continue to be frustrated trying to use it for fusing. My best suggestion is to try to find a friend or a glass shop that would want your stained glass.

    Marge H



    I have done a lot of playing with leftover stain glass, and without testing each and every piece for coe/compatability, there is one hard-and-fast rule that has applied... out of a single piece of stain glass, it can ONLY be fused to itself. No extra pieces, no mixing of colors. But within those perameters, you cut the piece to contrast the variations within that piece. Shapes can also be used to give contrast, and overlapping and varying the angles. It is a study in how creative you can get within the monochrome of one single piece of glass. I have also discovered USES with allow different pieces to be combined together without fusing them, such as windchimes, or sushi sets where the plate is one color, and the little bowls are of another piece that coordinates. There is a lot of stain glass out there that people give away for free, so play with it!

    Kim K


    Thank you Marge and Kim for assisting with this issue. This information will not only help Paul, but others who have the same question. Thank you!

    Responses help others in finding answers to their fusing questions. Do you have any other suggestions or hints that would benefit other glass fusing explorers? Share your comments and suggestions with our readers. Thanks!

    Wear a respirator when cutting ceramic fiber, such as fiber board. Use extra caution when working with this material.

    Clicking on the "Share this page" button at the bottom of your favorite pages will enable you to come back to your preferred pages and help others find interesting and exciting information.

    Please help share the site with others!


    Do you have an upcoming event or new product that you would like others to know about? Drop us a quick e-mail and once approved, it will be place in the next e-zine.


  • New Classes at Bullseye

  • Delphi Glass

  • New Fusing Supplies

  • Coatings by Sandberg

  • New Dichroic Glass Products

  • Slumpy”s

  • Slumpy’s What’s New

  • Stainless Steel Pattern Bar Mold

    I purchased my stainless steel pattern bar mold from Bonny Doon Fused Glass Tools.

    It is extremely well made and will last forever.

    Created with thick stainless steel, this mold will hold up to anything.

    Stainless steel formers are great to use in many ways, such as combing, scrap melts, pattern bars, pot melts and as a dam.

    Line them with 1/8” fiber paper to insure that the glass does not stick to the surface during firing.

    I purchased the 8” by 3 1/2” by 2” deep mold, which cost about $34.00.

    Check out their website for more great molds and some interesting tutorials.

    Feel free to spread the word about "Hot Out Of The Kiln" on your own blogs, Twitter, Facebook or any of your social bookmarking sites.

    And, thank you for signing up for the newsletter. If you know anyone else that might like to receive it please let them know. They can either visit the site and sign up, or send me an email at

    Comments? Ideas? Feedback? I would love to hear from you. Just reply to this e-zine and tell me what you think!

    See you next month…


    Back to Back Issues Page