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Issue #028 - Photos in Fused Glass
December 31, 2010

Hot Out of the Kiln

December 31, 2010


Hot Out of the Kiln brings you the latest information, ideas, and resources for your glass fusing experience. If you like this newsletter, please forward it to share it with your friends.

For your convenience, I have included pictures of the various learning tools available from Glass Fusing Made Easy. Clicking on these images will take you to that page on the site. If you are interested in purchasing any of these items, click on the add to cart button on that particular page. Thanks!

In this Issue of Hot Out of the Kiln:

1. Feature Article
2. Quote of the Month
3. Submit an Article or Tutorial
4. What I Have Been Working On
5. Reader Question
6. Tips and Tricks
7. Additions to Site
8. Product Review

Feature Article - Photos in Fused Glass

I receive a lot of questions about photos in fused glass. How do I find the fusing photo paper? How do I place color photos in fused glass? Where do I locate the correct cartridge for this decal paper? So, I thought I would take some time this month to discuss these issues.

Fusing Photo Paper - The fusing photo paper can be purchased through Delphi Glass, your local glass store, or any other online glass supplier. It is almost a guarded secret who manufactures this paper and if it can be purchased directly from the manufacturer. If you have any insider information that can be passed on to the readers, please let us know.

Color Photos in Fused Glass - Fusing color images into glass is the same as the sepia ones we are all familiar with, except in the printing of these photos onto the paper. This takes an expensive printer that can hold and disperse the specialized cartridges. If you want to fuse color photos or images, I would suggest having them done at one of the following locations:

  • Gui Hong Ceramics
  • Ceramic Digical
  • Heinrich Ceramic Decal
  • Correct Cartridge - Locating the correct cartridge to do this process isn’t very difficult. You will need a MICR cartridge for your printer. MICR stands for Magnetic Ink Character Recognition. Normally these cartridges are used for check printing. These have a magnetic toner that contains iron oxide. Once the decal has fired the iron content in the ink is what produces the final sepia image. Here are a few locations:

  • HP printers - hpMicra Cartridge
  • HP printers - Office Supply Outfitters
  • I hope this will assist you in using the fusing photo paper. If you have any further questions, please don't hesitate to contact me.

    Quote of the Month

    "When it comes to life, the critical thing is whether you take things for granted or take them with gratitude." - GK Chesterton

    Submit an Article or Tutorial

    Do you have a great glass fusing article or tutorial that you would like to share? We are inviting submissions of articles or tutorials for the web site. The articles will become permanent on the site once approved and a link back to your website or blog can be included in the submission. Helping and sharing with others is a great way to assist others in learning information and techniques about glass fusing. You can add so much to the site with your knowledge and experiences.

    If you have a web site or blog, then you know how important links are to get your site noticed by those search engines. A back link to your site will not only boost the search engine ranking, but assist in bringing traffic to your site.

    For more information and submission, check out Submit Your Article.

    What I Have Been Working On

    This month has been filled with planning and shopping for the holidays. By the time this reaches you, these will be over and the New Year will be upon us. Welcome 2011!

    After talking with several people, I have decided to turn the “Beginner Glass Fusing Class” into an e-book. I for one am not fond of e-books, but if there is a need for this, I am happy to help and assist my readers. The new e-book has been listed on the Glass Fusing Techniques page along with the other books and DVDs.

    Next month, I plan on turning the “Beyond the Basics” DVD into both a hard copy book and a downloadable e-book. Watch for these new additions on the site. This will take a little more time, as most of the material was off of the top of my head and not a written script as the “Beginner Glass Fusing Class” DVD and books were.

    I have added some new photos to the e-zine. Clicking on any of them will take you to the sales page for that particular product. If you have any questions, please feel free to email me directly.

    Have a healthy, safe and happy New Year!

    Reader Question

    Last month I proposed a problem that Suzanne had with her project. I appreciate Debra for her response! To refresh your memory (I know I always need that…lol), here is the problem followed by the response.

    Hi Connie,
    One of the pieces that cracked was Wissmach (anneal 940?) glass but the other was sold to me as Spectrum. Degrees are in F.

    For the full fuse

    ramp 300 to 1000 hold 15
    ramp 200 to 1250 hold 30
    ramp afap to 1475 hold 15
    ramp afap to 950 hold 120 (anneal for coe96)
    ramp 150 to 700 hold 25
    ramp 300 to 100

    For the slump

    ramp 150 to 300 hold 15
    ramp 300 to 1000 hold 15
    ramp afap to 1275 hold 20
    ramp 400 to 950 hold 60 (anneal for coe96)
    ramp 150 to 700 hold 15
    ramp 300 to 100

    I do not understand why the glass takes the full fuse without any problems and fails when I slump it. I must add that not all the pieces I make are breaking. Most are fine (so far anyway) even when I use not tested coe96 glass.

    I really would appreciate it if you could explain what is going wrong with these broken pieces so I can work around the problem in the future.

    Thanks again

    Reader Response:

    Debra writes:

    In the slump firing - I think you are missing the "soak" range by going from 1000 to 1275 afsp. You might be better off to slow it down (300/hr) or small pieces 400/hr ok) take up to 1200 and hold 15-20 min based on size & thickness (this squeezes out any bubbles and lets the mold catch up with the glass) then take on up 400/hr to 1250 - 1275. Your glass is going to slump within 15 - 25 min -- depending on size etc. -- your cooling schedule is more generous than it has to be. After 900-- just leave it ALONE til 100 +

    Tips and Tricks

    A toothpick can be used to determine which side of the glass has the Dichroic coating.

    Gently touch the surface of the glass with a toothpick. The reflected image can be seen actually touch the surface you are on the coated side of the glass.

    If there is a small space between the toothpick and the glass, you are on the non-coated side of the glass.

    Additions to the Site

    12/15/10 – Beginner Glass Fusing Class E-book

    Product Review - Beginner Glass Fusing Class E-book

    You asked for it…and now it is here! The Beginner Glass Fusing Class DVD has been turned into an e-book that can be downloaded on your computer. For those of you who enjoy the convenience of getting your material quickly, printing and binding your own printed papers, or having this information on your home computer…it is now available on the site.

    This e-book contains all the information that can be found on the DVD and book. It will definitely help you get started in glass fusing, and you can start today!

  • Introduction
  • Glass Types and COE
  • Glass Phases and Zones
  • Thermal Shock
  • 1000 Degrees Fahrenheit
  • Devitrification
  • Annealing
  • Quarter Inch Rule
  • Glass Assembly
  • Safety
  • Type of Kiln
  • Basic Supplies
  • Preparing Kiln
  • Preparing Kiln Shelf
  • Cutting Glass
  • Designing Glass
  • Firing Glass
  • Final Product

  • Thank You for Subscribing

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    See you next month…

    Glass Fusing Made Easy

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