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Issue #65 - Leaf Bowl
December 28, 2013
Hot Out of the Kiln
Well, the holidays are behind us and the new year is close at hand.
I worked, as I am sure most of you did, getting all of my fused projects ready for Christmas.
My kiln was going non-stop as I created a lot of fused glass decorative bowls, dichroic topped jewelry boxes, and dichroic pill boxes.
What did you make for your loved ones?
I would love to see some creative items you made for the holidays.
My new kiln is still waiting to be used, and I am trying to figure out the best way to support the lid as the kiln is opened.
Hopefully we can get it ready soon, because I just purchase a lot of larger molds from the 99 cent sale at Slumpy’s.
Sales for the Winter 2013 issue of the Fused Glass Projects magazine have been terrific and I hope everyone has enjoyed this latest edition.
To find it along with past issues, visit the website.
Share some of your creative projects with others by writing an article for one of the upcoming publications of the Fused Glass Projects magazine.
Until next month…keep it hot!
1. Feature Article
2. Quote of the Month
3. Glass Fusing Books and DVDs
4. Reader Response
5. Tips and Tricks
6. Share the Site
7. What's New
8. Product Review
Have you seen the adorable leaf bowl designs that seem to be popping up all over the place?
I wanted to make one, but the fused glass molds for these is extremely expensive.
Glass fusing art is expensive enough without having to spend a lot of money on a fused glass mold to create your project.
I decided to make a mold out of a sheet of Kaiser Lee Board.
1. Begin by drawing a pattern. This can of course be any type of leaf you want for your design.
2. Trace the pattern onto the Kaiser Lee Board using a pen or pencil.
3. Wear your dust mask as you use the carving tools to whittle out the design.
4. Canned air is fantastic for blowing out the loose material.
5. A wooden skewer can be used to etch in the veins of the leaf.
6. Once you have the design to your liking, spray the finished mold with MR97, following the directions on the can.
7. I used brown frit inside the veins of the leave to make the stand out and then various colors of green, red, yellow and clear to fill the mold. Over fill the mold, since the frit will flatten out and shrink during the firing process.
8. Place mold inside the kiln on kiln posts to elevate the mold and allow air circulation around the project.
Suggested Firing Schedule
Segment 1 – 300 degrees F (165 C) an hour to 1250 degrees F (675 C) – hold 30 minutes
Segment 2 – 300 degrees F (165 C) an hour to 1430 degrees F (775 C) – hold 30 minutes
Segment 3 – AFAP to 960 degrees F (515 C) – hold 90 minutes
Segment 4 – 50 degrees F (30 C) an hour to 800 degrees F (425 C) – no hold
Segment 5 – 100 degrees F (60 C) an hour to 600 degrees F (315 C) – no hold
Segment 6 – Cool to room temperature.
You can use the finished project as a tray, add it to another fusing project, or turn it into an adorable bowl.
I decided to slump it over a stainless steel bowl I had purchased from IKEA quite a few years ago.
I coated the stainless steel bowl with a couple of layers of MR97 and followed a simple slumping schedule.
"Nothing is impossible, the word itself says 'I'm possible'!" - Audrey Hepburn
Have you been wanting to learn the hot craft of glass fusing, but don't know where to begin?
Whether you enjoy watching movies to learn the techniques, or having a book to refer to as you learn, these learning tools will assist you in your progress.
If you don't have access to glass fusing classes, or want to learn some of the techniques that are not generally taught at these instructional settings, look no further.
I am trying to add new and exciting information all the time, and these learning materials are the newest items added to the site to help others learn glass fusing procedures.
To view or purchase any of the DVDs, Books, E-books or Downloadable Movies, click here.
TIP - If downloading any of the downloadable movies, keep in mind that they are very large files.
If you purchase and want to download any of these large files, you might consider using a product like the Free Download Manager.
It is a free product that needs to be downloaded and installed on your computer.
It will increase the download speed and decrease the time required to download the product.
I suspect that Cathy is correct in that she ramped too quickly. For that size and thickness, I would ramp at 300 F to 950 (that takes 3 & 1/2 hours) and hold for 10 minutes. Then ramp at 100 F per hour to 1300 F and hold for 30 minutes. Then as fast as possible to 1490 and hold for 10 minutes. Cool quickly to 900 F and hold for 90 minutes. Then continue cooling at a rate of 100 F an hour to 700 and then let the kiln cool slowly, not to cool faster than 400 degrees per hour.
As a tip; your glass can never be too clean. No dust, no fingerprints, no cutting oil, no nothing! The exception of course is a good de vitrification spray. The devit spray is mandatory if you use a water solution based hair spray as an adhesive, which seems to be gaining popularity.
Hope this helps and I enjoy getting your newsletter. Good luck with the new kiln.
Thank you, Jim for the helpful reply. I am sure that it will not only help Kathy, but others who might have the same question.
Responses help others in finding answers to their fusing questions. Do you have any other suggestions or hints that would benefit other glass fusing explorers? Share your comments and suggestions with our readers. Thanks!
The smoothest possible underside is achieved by using a piece of float glass sprayed with boron nitride as a kiln shelf. – Dennis Brady (Glass Campus)
Clicking on the "Share this page" button at the bottom of your favorite pages will enable you to come back to your preferred pages and help others find interesting and exciting information.
Please help share the site with others!
Do you have an upcoming event or new product that you would like others to know about? Drop us a quick e-mail and once approved, it will be place in the next e-zine.
Coatings by Sandberg
UGC Accents (Unique Glass Colors Accents) are a fantastic way to add some metallic pizzazz to your fused glass artwork.
These wonderful paints can be purchased in brass, copper, crystal ice, gold and platinum.
They come in small 1/2 ounce jars and cost $7.95 each.
These are manufactured by Unique Glass Colors and can be purchased here.
There is so much potential with these metallic paints.
Use them to add some sparkle and shine to your glass artwork, or to sign your pieces.
Before applying the ink, be sure to shake the container to mix up the medium and metal.
They can be applied using a paint brush, toothpick, or script writer pen.
A little bit of this paint goes a long way!
Feel free to spread the word about "Hot Out Of The Kiln" on your own blogs, Twitter, Facebook or any of your social bookmarking sites.
And, thank you for signing up for the newsletter. If you know anyone else that might like to receive it please let them know. They can either visit the site and sign up, or send me an email at firstname.lastname@example.org.
Comments? Ideas? Feedback? I would love to hear from you. Just reply to this e-zine and tell me what you think!
See you next month…
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