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Issue #71 - Freeze-N-Fuse
June 30, 2014

Hot Out of the Kiln

June 2014

Well, my thirteen year old Chihuahua, Jingles passed away on Saturday morning.

Losing a beloved pet is always hard, but we have thirteen years of some wonderful memories that we will cherish forever.

I received an email from Carmen Flores Tanis and took her class at Coatings by Sandberg this past weekend.

She is a delightful teacher filled with some creative and unique ways of etching on glass.

The class had six students and we spent an entire day learning and practicing her inventive ways of etching on glass.

We learned a variety of ways to etch glass, not only with the Mad Craft Skills Printable Resist Sheets, but with other items like stamps and stickers.

The picture to the right is my final project, although photographing never does dichroic glass justice.

I did learn that COE 90 glass is not smooth enough for the Mad Craft Skills Printable Resist Sheets, so it is suggested that it be used on COE 96 or mirror glass.

I want to say thank you to the people who have purchased the Summer 2014 issue of the Fused Glass Projects, and to the individuals who have submitted articles for the Fall edition.

Until next month…keep it hot!

Con





1. Feature Article

2. Quote of the Month

3. Glass Fusing Books and DVDs

4. Reader Response

5. Tips and Tricks

6. Share the Site

7. What's New

8. Product Review




Freeze-N-Fuse

Freeze-n-fuse is a fantastic way to create 3-D objects out of glass. Remember that once the piece is fired, it shrinks about 15 percent.

There are so many different candy molds and just about all of them can be used to create 3-D glass items.

This is a Pate-de-Verre method of manipulating glass inside a kiln.

For my freeze and fuse project, I used a cameo candy mold.

Assemble all of your materials before beginning so that you can complete the process.

Material List

  • Various Colors of Glass Powder
  • Dust Mask
  • Small Plastic Containers
  • Candy Mold
  • Paper Towel
  • Tap Water
  • Wooden Skewer or Paint Brush
  • Freezer
  • Kiln
  • Prepared Kiln Shelf
  • Wearing the dust mask, pour some glass powder into the plastic cup or container.

    Add just a tad of water and stir.

    Allow the powder to set and drain off any excess water.

    Using a wooden skewer or paint brush, drop various colors into the candy mold.

    Once completely filled, use a paper towel to blot the mold and remove any extra water.

    Place mold into freezer on a flat surface.

    Allow the glass to freeze for about 10-30 minutes, depending on the size of your mold.

    Pop out glass from mold and place on a prepared kiln shelf. This can be a shelf with kiln primer or kiln paper.

    I place my shelf inside the oven, set at about 300 degrees F to dry for about 10-15 minutes depending on the size of the project.

    Carefully remove the shelf from the oven. The powder is extremely fragile so be careful that you don’t bump or smash the pieces.

    Place shelf with the dry glass inside the kiln.

    Fire piece slowly to about 1000 degrees F and hold for about 10 minutes.

    Then go as fast as possible to about 1300 degrees F and hold for about 5 minutes.

    Bring the kiln temperature down as quickly as possible to 900 degrees F and hold for about 30 minutes.

    These directions were used for this project, but the temperature and hold times need to be adjusted according to your particular kiln and the size of your project.

    Taking the pieces to a higher temperature will add more gloss, but you could also lose some of the details.

    Once fired these freeze-n-fuse projects can be used in other fusing projects.




    "The observation of nature is part of an artist's life." ~ Henry Moore Matisse

    Have you been wanting to learn the hot craft of glass fusing, but don't know where to begin?

    Whether you enjoy watching movies to learn the techniques, or having a book to refer to as you learn, these learning tools will assist you in your progress.

    If you don't have access to glass fusing classes, or want to learn some of the techniques that are not generally taught at these instructional settings, look no further.

    I am trying to add new and exciting information all the time, and these learning materials are the newest items added to the site to help others learn glass fusing procedures.

    To view or purchase any of the DVDs, Books, E-books or Downloadable Movies, click here.

    TIP - If downloading any of the downloadable movies, keep in mind that they are very large files.

    If you purchase and want to download any of these large files, you might consider using a product like the Free Download Manager.

    It is a free product that needs to be downloaded and installed on your computer.

    It will increase the download speed and decrease the time required to download the product.




    READER RESPONSE:

    ----------------------------------------

    Connie.... In response to the question from Jan about the mold with way to much wash on it. For many years I have used the sanding disks they use for sanding sheetrock. I use the mesh ones that look like the screen in a screen door. They are sold at Lowes, Home Depot or any other hardware store. I use them to clean my molds when they start to show cracks. Caution should be taken, wear a mask as the particles will certainly be in the air you are breathing, and they are not something you want to breathe into your lungs.

    I use Kiln wash pretty much all the time, because it is so much cheaper to use than kiln paper. I usually give the kiln shelf or mold 3 good coats of kiln wash, letting the wash dry good between coats. Then I take about a tablespoonful of unmixed kiln wash and use a small kitchen sieve. ( I buy mine at the $1.00 store) and spread a small amount on top of the washed shelf or mold. Again wear a mask as unmixed kiln wash is very dangerous to breath. I have found I can get about 15/20 or more firings before having to re-wash the shelf, or mold I really notice the difference because you are firing on a light bed of unmixed kiln wash. Especially when doing small parts, such as dots to use as additions for enhancing your work. Maybe everyone already knows this but wouldn't hurt to mention it again as sometimes we get in a hurry and forget. I know it has really cut down on the amount of time I have to budget for cleaning the kiln shelf and re-washing it. Hope these help someone.

    Gene C


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    Thank you, Gene! You are always a wealth of helpful information.

    Responses help others in finding answers to their fusing questions. Do you have any other suggestions or hints that would benefit other glass fusing explorers? Share your comments and suggestions with our readers. Thanks!






    Always wear protective equipment when opening a kiln like high temperature gloves and glasses the provide IR/UV protection.




    Clicking on the "Share this page" button at the bottom of your favorite pages will enable you to come back to your preferred pages and help others find interesting and exciting information.

    Please help share the site with others!

    Thanks!



    Do you have an upcoming event or new product that you would like others to know about? Drop us a quick e-mail and once approved, it will be place in the next e-zine.

    Bullseye

  • New Classes at Bullseye


  • Delphi Glass

  • New Fusing Supplies


  • Coatings by Sandberg

  • New Dichroic Glass Products


  • Slumpy”s

  • Slumpy’s What’s New


  • Etchall Etching Cream


    Taking Carmen’s class this past weekend, we had the opportunity to try some Etchall Etching Cream.

    I had always used Armour Etch Cream in the past and had a few issues with the product, so this was a fantastic opportunity to try the other cream.

    We were given small bottles, that we could refill if needed during the class.

    This etching cream is re-usable and produces a nice permanent etched finish on the glass.

    Note that if you are firing your glass after etching, it should be done on dichroic glass, because it actually removes the dichroic coating.

    When fired, the etching remains and if done on black dichroic glass, you will see the black image with the dichroic glass still intact.

    It can be used on any type of glass and the image will remain, if not heated inside a kiln.

    Etchall Etching Cream can be used with pre-cut vinyl, rub-on-stencils, peel and stick stickers, resist gel and photo resist, as well as free hand application.




    Feel free to spread the word about "Hot Out Of The Kiln" on your own blogs, Twitter, Facebook or any of your social bookmarking sites.

    And, thank you for signing up for the newsletter. If you know anyone else that might like to receive it please let them know. They can either visit the site and sign up, or send me an email at connie@glass-fusing-made-easy.com.

    Comments? Ideas? Feedback? I would love to hear from you. Just reply to this e-zine and tell me what you think!

    See you next month…

    Con


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