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Issue #68 - Beveling Glass
March 31, 2014
Hot Out of the Kiln
It is the end of March and the Glass Expo is again behind us and will be back in a year.
Have you ever gone to the Glass Expo?
It is on my “To Do” list, and someday I will finally make it there.
I would like to take a couple of classes, but don’t know if it is worth the price they are asking, so I might just go and see all of the displays and of course purchase some desired glass fusing materials.
If you went this year, or in past years, share your thoughts on this event, and let us all know if it is indeed worth the price.
Also, if you would like to share some of your pictures, we would love to put them in the next e-magazine.
I am again working on the e-magazine, and have a couple of projects I am thinking about doing for the next issue.
We are always looking for individuals to share some of their projects, so please drop us a line.
You don’t have to be a writer to impart your insights with others, and I know lots of people would love to hear what you have to share.
If you haven’t purchased the Spring issue of the e-magazine, it can still be purchased by clicking here.
A big thank you to everyone who wrote to assist me in getting my kiln lid set up.
There were some very helpful tips and I will share them in this e-zine.
Until next month…keep it hot!
1. Feature Article
2. Quote of the Month
3. Glass Fusing Books and DVDs
4. Reader Responses
5. Tips and Tricks
6. Share the Site
7. What's New
8. Product Review
Beveling glass is accomplished by creating an angled surface around the edges of thick glass.
Beveled glass can be accomplished easily by using a wet belt sander.
The glass must be thick enough to accomplish this technique.
My piece is four layers thick and has been fused to a tack fuse so that all the layers are sealed together.
I have also seen this done by gluing glass together using an ultra-violet glue and light.
Once this has been accomplished, it is time to use a wet belt sander to grind the edges in an angle.
1. Fill the reservoir on the wet belt sander with water. Make sure that there is enough to saturate the sponge and that the belt is indeed wet when turned.
2. Adjust the platform on the wet belt sander to the your preferred angle.
3. Starting with the coarsest belt (80 grit), grind around all sides until each side is completely ground and even. Then turn your piece upside down and using the platform grind the glass edges to your selected angle.
4. Once you are satisfied with the results change the 80 Grit belt to the 120 Grit belt and go over all the sides, then continue with the 400 Grit belt and finish with the cork belt.
5. Attach a glue on bail to the bevel glass to turn piece into pendant.
Our greatest glory is not in never failing, but in rising up every time we fail – Ralph Waldo Emerson
Have you been wanting to learn the hot craft of glass fusing, but don't know where to begin?
Whether you enjoy watching movies to learn the techniques, or having a book to refer to as you learn, these learning tools will assist you in your progress.
If you don't have access to glass fusing classes, or want to learn some of the techniques that are not generally taught at these instructional settings, look no further.
I am trying to add new and exciting information all the time, and these learning materials are the newest items added to the site to help others learn glass fusing procedures.
To view or purchase any of the DVDs, Books, E-books or Downloadable Movies, click here.
TIP - If downloading any of the downloadable movies, keep in mind that they are very large files.
If you purchase and want to download any of these large files, you might consider using a product like the Free Download Manager.
It is a free product that needs to be downloaded and installed on your computer.
It will increase the download speed and decrease the time required to download the product.
Just a note--you could make a helping hand for you kiln lid by getting a small pully--mounting it over the kiln--a length of either HEAVY picture wire or what is called aircraft cable (available in different sizes--thicknesses)--a few clamps--and some weights--counter balance the whole thing--and it will work fine--i did one --and have used them at the studio here.
I just read my issue of "hot out of the kiln. I may have a solution to your problem with the large kiln lid. If you put a pulley overhead and use a light cable attached to the lid handle and through the pulley. Attach the other end to a large piece of metal. As you lift the lid the large piece of metal will be a counter balance to the lid and will make it easier to lift. We have been using this system in the Glass Shop in AZ. for many years now with great success. It also aids in holding the lid up when placing or removing items from the kiln.
I just got my first e-magazine from your site. Very polished looking. As I'm new I didn't know about your arm issue. Not sure how big your kiln is or where it is situated. Have you considered putting an eye bolt in the ceiling above and behind your kiln. You could arrange a pulley with enough wheels for the rope to dramatically reduce the weight load and effort needed on your part to pull the rope and lift the lid. You could put a caribener on the end of the rope to grab the handle, but be able to unhook it when not needed, such as during a firing. I can see this in my head, but not sure if I'm describing it well. It would be a fairly inexpensive solution, and if you have a friend who is handy and familiar w/ pulley setups to figure the correct place to set the eye bolt and choose the correct pulley, an easy installation. Best of luck in solving this issue.
I also have a problem centering a piece of glass that is opague or really dark cathedral over a drape mold. I've tried marking w/ sharpies etc, it's still an issue. For a tiny drape over a mini plant pot, I can get pretty close, but I want to try a larger drape and don't want to waste glass. I'll be looking for answers on that one. I too suffer w/ chronic illness. I've come to fully understand the phrase ' the spirit is willing, but the flesh is weak'. Best of luck to you in your healing and glass endeavors.
Thank you to everyone who responded. I really appreciate the suggestions.
Responses help others in finding answers to their fusing questions. Do you have any other suggestions or hints that would benefit other glass fusing explorers? Share your comments and suggestions with our readers. Thanks!
Pressing too hard scoring is the THE MOST COMMON MISTAKE people make cutting. Second most common is inconsistent pressure. I recommend everybody do a little practice with a bathroom scale to visualize the pressure they exert. Place a piece of clear or transparent glass on the scale and score it. Watch the reading and see if it varies anywhere in the score. The target is 6 to 8 lbs pressure. NO MORE is ever needed. – Dennis Brady
Clicking on the "Share this page" button at the bottom of your favorite pages will enable you to come back to your preferred pages and help others find interesting and exciting information.
Please help share the site with others!
Do you have an upcoming event or new product that you would like others to know about? Drop us a quick e-mail and once approved, it will be place in the next e-zine.
Coatings by Sandberg
Gryphon Wet Belt Sander
The Gryphon Wet Belt Sander is a fantastic tool for cold working your fused glass projects.
This sander has ninety square inches of grinding surface, and the belt is 3 inches wide.
It has an adjustable platform to assist in supporting projects for just the right angle of grinding surface.
There is a reservoir at the bottom that is filled with water and a sponge is placed so that it keeps the belt wet during the process.
There are 4 individual belts:
The sander costs around $250 and this generally includes 3 belts, so you are ready to use the machine immediately.
I know that when I first purchased this tool, I had problems with the belts staying in place, but after a trip to my local glass store, he instructed me on how to adjust the unit so that belt stayed secure and no longer wiggled around or slipped off when the machine was turned on.
All in all, I am extremely happy with the Gryphon Wet Belt Sander, and use it a lot to ensure even cold working of my projects.
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Comments? Ideas? Feedback? I would love to hear from you. Just reply to this e-zine and tell me what you think!
See you next month…
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